Author: Dan Johnson

  • Native Roads

    Native Roads

    tl;dr–Patterns of indigenous use etched a profoundly influential template on the landscape of the Difficult Run Basin.

    (John Smith’s 1612 Map of Virginia courtesy of the Library of Congress)
    Narrative Event Horizons

    Roads are patterns. Habitual human behavior carves itself into the earth. We barely notice. It’s a monumental paradox. 

    “An axis is perhaps the first human manifestation; it is the means of every human act,” writes Le Corbusier in his Towards a New Architecture.1 Mighty important as axial roads are, they are essential to the point of invisibility. It’s a phenomenon ethnographer Susan Leigh Star studied in depth. Vital infrastructure is typically invisible until the point of breakdown.

    In the case of all critical components of civic engineering—sewage flows, power corridors, and especially roads—Star hints that any study requires “looking for these traces left behind by coders, designers, and users of systems.”2

    Fairfax and Loudoun Counties preserve a wealth of records regarding the formation of modern roads whose roots and traces stretch back as far as the colonial era. Unfortunately, to excavate the work of the original “coders, designers, and users” of Fairfax County roads, we need to punch through a bias boundary.

    In the preface to the 1986 edition of his historic monograph on the Potomac River, Frederick Guttheim promises coverage of “the entire river basin, with its three hundred and fifty years of human history.”3 If that phrase ever made sense in 1949, it’s an especially bad look now. 

    The blank slate fallacy is a tired borrow from the earliest rhetoric attached to European colonization. In the publicity drive calculated to heighten participation in the pyramid scheme of near-slave labor required to make the early colonies viable, English boosters promulgated a bunk and conniving narrative of virgin wilderness yearning to enrich hard-working yeomen.4

    The mythos of unifocal European creationism endures. It slants histories of design and development in Northern Virginia. Pervasive bias couples with a want of indigenous records to create an event horizon at European contact. What transpired before was formative and yet unknowable. 

    Still, its crucial to acknowledge that European civilization—especially in Northern Virginia was not a first build. It was a graft. Archaeological evidence in the Upper Difficult Run Basin alone suggests that as many as eight thousand years of human prehistory shaped the land. 

    Indigenous migrations, site selection practices, and resource acquisition patterns established the original parameters for European settlements. This largely glossed-over and wide-spanning chapter in spatial history exerted an inordinate influence on what transpired after. 

    In Fairfax County, “history” begins in June 1608 when John Smith undertook an expedition up the Potomac River in search of precious metals.5 Smith spent a season exploring the Potomac. When considered against the rich body of archaeological records denoting thousands of years of lived time, Smith’s moment along the Potomac was an interval of time equivalent to a single frame of film in Lawrence of Arabia. The distortion is obvious, but nonetheless, the adventurer’s account became the definitive account of the indigenous world along the Potomac.

    Smith was diligent in capturing a sense of the riverine world on which Algonquian-speaking people of future Fairfax County built their society. In this far corner of the Powhatan world—known to its inhabitants as Chicacoan—Smith recalls a society built to integrate with the great Potomac River and the many creeks that fed it.6

    River People

    Shellfish and lowland agriculture fed villages set just off the river on hillsides that overlooked broad creeks that flowed into the Potomac. These hydrological features were critical. In the age of the canoe, waterways were highways. This partially-true hypothesis makes sense to a transcontinental explorer like John Smith who privileged travel by boat in his own worldview. Especially given his membership in a world cut from a fabric woven together from diplomacy and wealth. 

    Chicacoan was nominally allied to the Powhatan Confederacy. Still, its distance from the werowance, or chieftain, afforded this district a unique set of opportunities and challenges. “Potomac” is apparently an Algonquian word for “something brought.”7 The people that John Smith encountered across the Potomac River for the future site of Washington, D.C. specialized in trade. They belonged to a confluence culture, facilitated by a marriage of river access and proximity to the fall line where Iroquois-speaking people, including the Susquehannock, similarly trafficked in specialized resources.8

    This reality presents a more nuanced idea of place-use in Algonquian culture than that presented by John Smith. They did utilize the rivers for transportation, defense, sustenance, and trade. This watery-road network offered invaluable access to the south, but was hindered immediately to the northwest by the fall line. 

    In order to facilitate trade, the Doge and Patwomekes inhabiting present day Fairfax County would necessarily have enjoyed a built interface with the interior that was independent of river access.9

    Smith himself teased a “beyond” that connected river-adjacent primary villages with resource camps in the distant hinterlands. Having communicated his thirst for rare earth, natives led Captain Smith to the site of a prominent ore quarry some seven or eight miles from the river.10

    An existing network of paths and roads was apparently already cut into the landscape by the time natives utilized one to bring Captain Smith to an established resource extraction site. It is this infrastructural system on which much of the colonial English world in Fairfax County was transposed.

    (Secotan on Pamlico, an Algonquian village represented in this 1619 engraving courtesy of the Library of Congress)
    Land Orientation

    Its most important vestigial trace could be found well into the 19th century with the common usage of the term “ridge road.” 

    Historian Donald Sweig—one of the much beloved narrativists who collaborated with Nan Netherton to authoritatively document the County’s past—charted Colonial-era infrastructural growth along basic criteria.

    “As the roads developed,” Sweig wrote, “they frequently followed old Indian or animal trails or the line of least resistance along the top of natural ridges.”11

    Precise, but tautological to the max, Sweig’s formulation neglects to mention that Indian trails, animal paths, and “ridge roads” were often one in the same. Elsewhere in the historical record, in fact, the term “ridge road” is used almost synonymously with Indian path. We are meant to understand that indigenous people and their animal predecessors cut the first crest line paths trails that English colonists used to inject themselves into the countryside. 

    (1879 Hopkins Map shows “RIDGE ROAD” on a section of today’s Reston Parkway north of Fox Mill Road.)

    In 1952, Katherine Snyder Shands assembled the theory from abundant folk knowledge and oral history for a piece in the Historical Society of Fairfax County’s Yearbook.

    Shands offers the interspecies theory of road origin as follows, “The inland roads began as the trails of the buffaloes going from their pasture lands along the river, over the Blue Ridge, and into the Valley. Over these trails went the Indians, and after them the earliest explorers and fur traders. As men and animals instinctively seek the course of least resistance, the trails followed the ridges of the hills by the easiest grades, and later the roads followed over them. These roads were used by the new settlers, who, finding no room along the rivers, went to the Piedmont and over the mountains; and it is these same roads which carry over Fairfax County the swift traffic of today.”12

    Later sources more oriented to the immediate confines of Difficult Run are more explicit in conflating native paths with geographic opportunism. 

    D’Anne Evans’ history of the hamlet of Vale—a mostly forgotten post office-designated community in the heart of the Upper Difficult Run Basin—treats both Hunter Mill Road and Chain Bridge Road as “two Indian ridge trails.”13

    Patricia Strat, Evans’ successor and an eminently qualified and prolific historian in her own right, identifies Ox Road (today’s West Ox Road) as an Indian trail and ridge road in the appendices to her monograph on the community of Navy.14

    The Hopkins Map of 1879 depicts a section of today’s Reston Parkway that unites with the once and former Ox Road as a “Ridge Road.” This thoroughfare bridges the gap from the northwest edge of the Difficult Run watershed through Dranesville all the way to the Potomac.15

    We’re left with an understanding that the area surrounding Difficult Run was bounded by high ridges which were already established as transportation corridors before the arrival of European colonists. Curiously, all three of these Indian ridge roads—West Ox with its later northern Ridge Road corollary, Hunter Mill, and Chain Bridge—connect known stone quarries with the Potomac River. 

    Lithic Determinism

    In 1728, Robert “King” Carter patented land at a site known as “Frying Pan” in the western reaches of Fairfax County. It sat on a plain accessible by both forks of the known Ridge Roads that ran along present West Ox Road. In fact, the designation “Ox Road,” by which this avenue came to achieve colonial prominence, denoted the path as the axis of outflow for the Carter’s mining operation at Frying Pan.16

    Originally thought to be a rich vein of copper ore, the rock discovered at Frying Pan was assayed in London as little more than green sandstone. A worthless asset in the alchemy of trans-Atlantic mercantilism, but part of a rich complex of triassic sandstones whose use bridges prehistoric Virginia with colonial extraction and contemporary Washington, D.C.

    Local natives utilized that category of stone in carvings.17 Colonists attempted to mine and monetize it. Modern architects privileged its use in monumental building for structures in the nation’s capitol.18 The particular seam of viridescent stone at Frying Pan was largely a bust, but one that is not coincidentally connected via established pathways to a trans-Potomac world build on the trade of rare or alluring resources.

    More intriguing still is the case of modern Chain Bridge and Hunter Mill Roads, both of which follow courses from known fords over the Potomac to an intersection point half a mile from an important deposit of stone that native people prized for its use in tools and points. 

    What came first? Knowledge of the discovery of strong vein of white quartz near modern Marbury Road in Oakton, Virginia, or the ridge roads that led there? By the time English settlers arrived, the pocket of valuable igneous stone was well known. To the point that the town of Oakton first assumed the name “Flint Hill,” a name it carried through the Civil War, because Europeans mistook the already well-quarried stone for valuable flint.19

    They were mistaken and disappointed. What’s critical here goes beyond the disappointment of metallurgically-aware Europeans. A complex of indigenous people whose archaeological record is strewn with white quartz tools built two separate axes connecting trade routes with a quarry site rich in white quartz.2021

    Prehistoric records are very difficult to document and much more challenging to speculate about accurately. Nonetheless, the high ground surrounding Upper Difficult Run presents an interesting theory about indigenous lithic determinism and the roots of place development. 

    (Two ridge roads collide above the “I” in Fairfax in Herman Boyd’s 1859 Map of Virginia)
    Valley Roads

    This world of high roads and heavy stone and its predominance over road creation theory in Fairfax County has flaws. Chiefly, it owes much to the original John Smith theory of riverine people. Their world and our imagination of it privileges high ground on which trade parties could perhaps snatch valuable rocks to trade across the river. 

    It’s only half of the story. 

    Before we find ourselves fully seduced by the oysters and spear points view of Potomac pre-history, we do well to soak in the mysteries of a duality-rich world until the skin on our fingers prunes. 

    From this tepid bath, an important question bubbles up from the drain: doesn’t the term “ridge road” imply the existence of non-ridge roads?  Is it safe to assume there were also valley roads? Or were the first residents of modern Fairfax County too prim and proper to muddy their feet in the marshy bottoms?

    The answer is complicated—chiefly because archaeological resources in Fairfax County and Virginia at large are treated as protected assets. Their is no publicly-available database of sites within Difficult Run that can be indexed, mapped, and analyzed. 

    We’re left to eat around the edges, so to speak, on a table set by former Fairfax County Park Authority archaeologist, Michael F. Johnson. An enthusiastic student of pre-history, Johnson festooned the public record with important breadcrumbs highlighting the indigenous past along the upper reaches of Difficult Run. 

    Among Johnson’s clues are tantalizing hints about an abundance of chips and flakes found throughout the Fox Mill communities, which augment sites discovered near Franklin Farms, Pender, and the triangle between Jermantown Road, Waples Mill, and Route 50. 

    There are also accounts of a three-quarter greenstone axe dating from the period between 2000 BC and 1600 AD discovered near Quay Road above Stuart Mill and a hunter/gatherer site from 4000 to 6000 BC found “in the vicinity of Fox Mill and Hunt Roads.”22

    (1919 topographic map overlaid with general vicinity markers for known indigenous sites documented in public record)

    Johnson and others devoted an immense amount of time and effort into the study of upland “procurement sites” and “temporary camps.”23 The work is an important step in adding dimension to the “oysters and canoes” impression of indigenous life along the Potomac.

    The Karell and Dead Run sites—cherished laboratories for Johnson’s work—provide an interesting case study of inland valley life. Debitage excavations reveal little in the way of riverine food stuff. Both sites are also rich in quartz points. More intriguing still, the location of each is nestled along upland hollows just off of or proximal to alluvial fans or headwater floodplains.24

    This position is significant in two ways.

    First, it either duplicates or anticipates the same site selection pattern documented by John Smith and his colleagues as early as 1608. To quote Strachey, a fellow explorer of Smith, regarding the location of Algonquian sites on the Potomac, “theire habitations or Townes, are for the most part by the Rivers; or not far distant from fresh springs commonly upon the rise of a hill, that they made overlook the river and take every small thing into view which sturrs upon the same.”25 

    Fresh water was likely not a position determinant for inland procurement sites, but strategic high ground feels significant. The sites Johnson alludes to in Difficult Run—those between Route 50 and Waples Mill, on Quay Road, and in the triangle of modern Vale, Fox Mill, and Hunt Roads—all sit on high ground where present hardwood forests overlook either Difficult Run or Little Difficult Run while still maintaining a less-than-visible posture from the creek valleys below. 

    By nature, temporary camps beyond semi-permanent villages balanced essential opportunity with common hazard. In an area known as a contested liminal space between sometimes rival indigenous groups, rich forests overlooking fertile floodplains would have been prized possessions.

    This illuminates the second crucial hint. Sites that potentially span nearly eight thousand years of human history in the Difficult Run area also bridge two separate resource paradigms: hunting/gathering and early agriculture. Not coincidentally, the site selection practices of Algonquian people in Difficult Run situates their procurement camps at the exact interface where collection zones intersect with cultivation zones. 

    People Gotta Eat

    Assuring caloric competency requires procurement strategies that are necessarily flexible. Rigidity in practice does not seem to be something indigenous people of the eastern United States could afford. Instead, an agile mentality woven from experimentation and innovation seems to be the norm. 

    Earliest sites, like the hunter/gatherer camp that Mike Johnson explored near Fox Mill and Hunt Roads, benchmark the beginning of a cultural-culinary survival complex, one that responds to broad and sweeping climactic change. 

    Cooler weather patterns with long, oppressive winters phased out in favor of warming periods that invoked a groundswell of change in the biome.26 A sample study conducted at the Cliff Palace Pond site in Kentucky is illustrative of larger trends in mid-latitude North American Forests. Spruce and northern white cedar trees that were dominant in the Early-Holocene some eight thousand years ago declined in favor of hemlock, which in turn gave way to eastern red cedar some five thousand years ago. Beginning around the time to which Johnson’s dates the greenstone axe found on Quay Road, mixed oak-chestnut and pine forests became dominant.27

    The oak/chestnut/hickory complex is a vital hint. These trees are more fire-tolerant to their predecessors and their preeminence in forests of a certain time suggests the emergence of anthropocentric fire regimes that groomed the landscape with intention. Motivation for any would-be fire starters of the mid-Holocene is clear: oak, chestnut, and hickory trees produce mast, or nuts.28

    This forage-able resource was an essential component of early indigenous diet. A hickory grove of an area 1.2 kilometers in diameter could feed a family of ten for a year.29 Beyond direct impact, mast was also an indirect boon to these people. Wild hogs and other sources of huntable meat fattened on fallen acorns and chestnuts. 

    In his memoir, Country Boy Gone Soldiering, George Henry Waple, III, who grew up around his family’s mill on Difficult Run in the 1920s and 1930s remembers an abundance of mast. He recalls collecting nuts from the many chestnut trees that lined the valley and hills around his home and also details a bounty of nuts harvested from “bushes” that he referred to as “chinkapins.” Castanea Pumila, the Allegheny Chinquapin, was itself an important contributor to pre-historic foraging diets.30

    The same fire clearance strategies that thinned upland forests of unproductive tree guilds in favor of mast-producing hardwoods also facilitated hunting and eventually came to be a known pillar of Algonquian cultivation strategies. John Smith provided accounts of tree stumps deliberately set ablaze in order to both clear and fertilize eventual maize production.31

    In the bottoms below these fertile forests, prehistoric indigenous groups of the eastern United States learned to lean heavily on the chaotic confluence where fire, water, and earth achieved fecund symbiosis.

    Long before the gradual trial-and-error invasion of maize from meso-America, long processes of experimentation brought the floodplain to preeminence in Native resource strategies. Known alternately as the “mudflat hypothesis” or the “floodplain weed theory,” Bruce Smith’s ideas about archaeobotany center around mid-Holocene patterns of alluvial deposit. Gone were far-spaced episodes of flooding. Instead, more consistent geographic and chronological patterns of “aggradation and stabilization” created consistent river and tributary valleys.32

    Routine flooding churned creek-adjacent lands and flooded them with rich silt that encouraged the production of edible weeds like squash, sunflower, marsh elder, and chenopod.33 More than fire-cleared hillside meadows, bottom lands that had been swept of vegetation and reseeded by edible weed-friendly happenstance emerged between critical foraging districts.

    Where mast-bearing trees of an area 1.2km in diameter could feed a family of ten for a year, 16,000 square meters of floodplain chenopod would provide the same sustenance.34 Eventually, these patterns of foraging took on a deliberate, programatic nature, with seed selection, culling, and intentional cultivation replacing happenstance.

    (The same 1919 topographic map integrates known indigenous sites with thick lines denoting positions of axial floodplains along Difficult Run and its higher tributaries)

    This is quite literally academic. On a very practical level, however, a place such as modern day Oakton, Virginia, which is named after its wealth of mast-producing trees, is also quietly littered with indigenous sites that sit astride two important patterns of life-sustaining resources. Natives spanning thousands of years set up temporary camps on wooded hillsides overlooking creeks. 

    With deliberate site selection, indigenous people both overwatched and integrated diversified caloric landscapes, while simultaneously maintaining a strategic eye on the main axes of travel. 

    Foot paths—the first roads and the essential predecessors to the “bridle-paths” of the 1860s—united resource geographies by tracing longitudinal lines along forager-friendly creeks and bisected these water ways on axes that utilized natural clefts in the landscape. The most advantageous of these routes connected native peoples to ridge roads and still more essential lithic deposits where cultivation and processing tools like quartz were readily available.

    Glimmers of Proof

    In Difficult Run, the earliest document of such paths arrived woefully late with the 1937 aerial survey. By this point two centuries of European influence had contaminated the purity of any original paths that may have forked from the ridge roads down into the valley. Still, interesting patterns remain.

    (From the 1937 aerial, the white pad is the former location of Fox’s Lower Mill. The road at upper left is today’s Fox Mill Road just north of Waples Mill. Note the draws heading down from highlands on either side of the creek and fissures of trail that run along the creek, toward it, and in subtly diverging patterns)

    Just west of Marbury Road where “Flint Hill” drops into the valley behind Fox’s Lower Mill, white fractures in the landscape attest to patterned footfall. Paths partner and travel along the creek at near intervals and in parallel near the edge of the existing woods—an interface where deer and other prey are known to favor. These paths fork at opportune moments. They rarely, if ever, dart up a hill at its most drastic and impregnable height.

    (John Fox property at left (currently Fox Lake) and Miller Road at right. Each features prominent trails skirting heights or tracing the path of least resistance upwards.)

    Instead, the cross axes travel through drainage draws and cuts past and beyond nearby hillside sites that early foragers would have found suitable. In this way, fingers of opportunity dating to a mysterious past, dart across the woods and fields in ways that were and will never be rendered on maps, except in their truest form—as creeks and local minima. 

    (The almost road-like trails at left lead up to the former Trammel property on Vale Road (Old Bad Road) while the pastures at right dart upwards towards Hunter Mill Road.)

    The key to John Mosby’s successful navigation of this basin is found in the meanderings of pre-history. For millennia, people have come to this place to sustain themselves. They have traveled in a way that marries convenient opportunities of landform with the abundant necessity of bridging high forests and low floodplains. 

    These patterns repeat ad nauseam and predict other spatial requirements negotiated by Confederate guerrillas thousands of years later. Where forested heights intersect long, sprawling creeks, we find spatial opportunities that transcend any one time period.

    Notes

    1.  Le Corbusier. Towards a New Architecture. New York City: Prayer Publishers, 1960. P. 173. 
    2.  Star, Susan Leigh. “The Ethnography of Infrastructure.” American Behavioral Scientist 43, no 3. (377-391). https://doi.org/10.1177/00027649921955326
    3.  Gutheim, Frederick. The Potomac. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1949. p. ix. 
    4.  Isenberg, Nancy. White Trash. New York City: Viking, 2016. p. 3. 
    5.  Potter, Stephen R. Commoners, Tribute, and Chiefs: The Development of Algonquian Culture in the Potomac Valley. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 1993. p. 8.
    6.  ibid 1.
    7.  Gutheim, Frederick. The Potomac. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1949. p. 28.
    8.  Potter, Stephen R. Commoners, Tribute, and Chiefs: The Development of Algonquian Culture in the Potomac Valley. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 1993. p. 150-151
    9. ibid 179.
    10.  Gutheim, Frederick. The Potomac. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1949. p. 24
    11.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. p. 20. 
    12.  Shands, Katherine Snyder. “Fairfax County Before the American Revolution.” HFSC Yearbook 2 (1952-53): 3-17. https://archive.org/details/hfssc-yearbook-volume-2/
    13.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. p. 103.
    14.  Strat, Patricia. “People and Places of the Navy Community Fairfax County, Virginia, 1887-1984.” Fairfax County History Commission, February 22, 2019. https://fairfaxcounty.gov/history-commission/sites/history-commission/files/assets/documents/resources/navy-community-fairfax-county.pdf#page=1 
    15.  Hopkins, Griffith M. Atlas of Fifteen Miles Around Washington Including the Counties of Fairfax and Alexandria, Virginia (1879). Scale not given. In: Stephenson, Richard W. The Cartography of Northern Virginia: Facsimile Reproductions of Maps Dating From 1608 to 1915. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1981, page 85.
    16.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. p. 22-25
    17.  “The Whitehurst Freeway Sites.” The National Park Service/Rock Creek Park. https://nps.gov/articles/whitehurst-freeway-sites-at-rock-creek.htm 
    18.  Withington, Charles F. Building Stones of our Nation’s Capitol. Washington, D.C.: United States Geological Survey, 1975.
    19.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. p. 11.
    20.  Johnson, Michael. “Mockley Distribution in the Interior: An Exception to Oyster Determinism.” Middle Atlantic Archaeological Conference, 1989. https://maacmidatlanticarchaeology.org/MAAC%20Program%201989.pdf p. 76, 92
    21.  Potter, Stephen R. Commoners, Tribute, and Chiefs: The Development of Algonquian Culture in the Potomac Valley. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 1993. p. 200, 204.
    22.  Joy S. Starr Collection on Vale History. Collection 06-18. Virginia Room. Fairfax County Library. Box 1, Folder 3. “Vale History: From Money’s Corner Through Difficult.”
    23.  Potter, Stephen R. Commoners, Tribute, and Chiefs: The Development of Algonquian Culture in the Potomac Valley. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 1993. p. 77.
    24.  Johnson, Michael. “Mockley Distribution in the Interior: An Exception to Oyster Determinism.” Middle Atlantic Archaeological Conference, 1989. https://maacmidatlanticarchaeology.org/MAAC%20Program%201989.pdf p. 68-92
    25.  Potter, Stephen R. Commoners, Tribute, and Chiefs: The Development of Algonquian Culture in the Potomac Valley. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 1993. p. 28-29
    26.  Pettitt, Dr. Alisa. “Virginia Indian History at Riverbend Park.” Fairfax County Park Authority. Https://fairfaxcounty.gov/parks/sites/parks/files/assets/documents/naturalcultural/archaeology/archaeology-first-virginians-riverbend-park.pdf
    27.  Delcourt, Paul A., Hazel R. Delcourt, Cecil R. Ison, William E. Sharp, and Kristen J. Gremillion. “Prehistoric Human Use of Fire, the Eastern Agricultural Complex, and Appalachian Oak-Chestnut Forests: Paleoecology of Cliff Palace Pond, Kentucky.” American Antiquity 63, no. 2 (1998): 263-86. https://doi.org/10.2307/2694697 
    28. Zeanah, David W. “Foraging Models, Niche Construction, and the Eastern Agricultural Complex.” American Antiquity 82, no. 1 (2017): 3-24. https://jstor.org/stable/26337953
    29.  ibid. p. 7
    30. Waple, George Henry, III. Country Boy Gone Soldiering. George Waple, III, publisher. 2004. pg. 37.
    31.  Potter, Stephen R. Commoners, Tribute, and Chiefs: The Development of Algonquian Culture in the Potomac Valley. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 1993. p. 32-33.
    32.  Price, T. Douglas. “Ancient Farming in Eastern North America.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America 106, no. 16 (2009): 6427-28. https://jstor.org/stable/40482110 p. 476.
    33.  Zeanah, David W. “Foraging Models, Niche Construction, and the Eastern Agricultural Complex.” American Antiquity 82, no. 1 (2017): 3-24. https://jstor.org/stable/26337953
    34.  ibid.
  • A Psychogeography of Difficult Run

    A Psychogeography of Difficult Run

    Detail from Herman Boyd's 1859 "Map of the State of Virginia" detailing Hunter Mill

    What did it mean to be from the Upper Difficult Run Basin? 

    What does it mean to be from any place? What nurture effects can a space exert on a person’s identity and how do we chart this spiritual terroir? 

    A PSYCHOGEOGRAPHY PRIMER

    (A wolf oak just east of Fox’s Upper Mill)

    We find ourselves in the realm of “psychogeography,” a term largely credited to Guy Debord who offered the neologism as “a study of the precise laws and specific effects of the geographical environment, consciously organized or not, on the emotions and behavior of individuals.” Not content to frame his idea with such exacting and scientific trim, Debord immediately hedged his description by offering that psychogeography was subject to “a rather pleasing vagueness.”1

    So it is that “psychogeography” is both a concept rich in possibilities and steeped in ambiguity. Many have attempted to fill the paradoxical fold between these two truths. No one has succeed as efficiently as geographers who slotted in behind the broad-stroked whimsy of the Situationalists to offer more concrete descriptions of the links between mind and place. 

    “Space is socially produced,” offers landscape theorist Christopher Tilley. His work fleshes out the idea that places are interfaces where people and the places they occupy conspire to create identity. 

    He goes on, “A centre and meaningful space involves specific sets of linkages between the physical space of the non-humanly created world, somatic states of the body, the mental space of cognition and representation and the space of movement, encounter and interaction between persons and between persons and the human and non-human environment.” 

    In short, Tilley offers, “What space is depends on who is experiencing it and how.”2 

    Anne Whiston Spirn, a scholar of space, axes, and self, hones in on culture as a framework for containing this productive “experiencing.” In the viral mores, codes, and customs that define self, Spirn excavates an essential link to the places in which these practices prevail.

    “Culture is a fabric, the deep context of the natural landscape, the warp against which the weft of human intervention and elaboration weaves a pattern,” says Spirn. 

    “Landscape context is complex and dynamic, woven of many strands, in multiple dimensions. In landscape, speaking in context demands more than using local materials and imitating forms common to the regional landscape. To speak in context is to distinguish deep and lasting contexts from those that are superficial and fleeting; it is to respond to the rhythms and histories of each and to project those contexts into the future. To guide such contextual expression is the function of the grammar of landscape.”3

    Beyond the threshold of Spirn’s cultural context creation, ideas and abstractions become things and actions in a world that archaeologist and place-specialist James Deetz chronicled with his epic In Small Things Forgotten: An Archaeology of Early American Life.

    “Culture is socially transmitted rules for behavior, ways of thinking about and doing things,” Deetz begins with a touch of familiarity. “We inherit our culture from the teachings and examples of our elders and our peers rather than from genes, whether it is the language we speak, the religious beliefs that we subscribe to, or the laws that govern our society. All such behavior is reflected and in subtle and important ways in the manner in which we shape our physical world. Material culture is usually considered to be roughly synonymous with artifacts, the vast universe of objects used by humankind to cope with the physical world. To facilitate social intercourse, and to benefit our state of mind. A somewhat broader definition of material culture is useful in emphasizing how profoundly our world is the product of our thoughts, as that sector of our physical environment that we modify through culturally determined behavior.4

    Deetz’s skilful utilization of the coping concept delaminates the relationship between culture and landform from utopian delusions of a nurturing Gaia producing happy humans. Maybe psychogeography is more a catalog of horrors than a museum of achievements. Either way, mentality and materiality seem to anchor a two-way conduit of formation. 

    Annie Dillard, whose non-fiction magnum opus Pilgrim at Tinker Creek netted her a Pulitzer Prize for its hyper-local depiction of the topography where humans meet their environment in rural southwest Virginia, would seem to agree with Deetz. Culture writ large on a landscape rich in learned experience is perhaps an elaborate defense mechanism for the things we have endured thanks to the places we occupy.

    She has this to say on the topic, “I have to look at the landscape of the blue-green world again. Just think: in all the clean beautiful reaches of the solar system, our planet alone is a blot; our planet alone has death. I have to acknowledge that the sea is a cup of death and the land is a stained altar stone. We the living are survivors huddled on flotsam, living on jetsam. We are escapees. We wake in terror, eat in hunger, sleep with a mouthful of blood.”5

    The stained altar stone and the mouthful of blood evoke a psychogeography cast around trauma first and foremost. These lush laments translate across disciplines. Utilizing the more stoic verbiage of the academic geography, Doreen Massey suggests a similar paradigm in a concept of places steeped in processes of “penetrability and vulnerability.” 

    “What gives a place its specificity is not some long-internalized history but the fact that it is constructed out of a particular constellation of relations, articulated together at a particular locus. If one moves in from the satellite toward the globe, holding all those networks of social relations and movements and communications in one’s head, then each place can be seen as a particular, unique point of their intersection. The uniqueness of a place, or a locality, in other words is constructed out of particular interactions and mutual articulations of social relations, social processes, experiences and understandings, in a situation of co-presence, but where a large proportion of those relations, experiences and understandings are actually constructed on a far larger scale than what we happen to define for that moment as the place itself, whether that be a street, a region, or even a continent. Instead then, of thinking of places as areas with boundaries around, they can be imagined as articulated moments in networks of social relationships and understandings. And this in turn allows a sense of place which is extraverted, which includes a consciousness of its links with the wider world, which integrates in a positive way the global and the local.”6

    Translation: the battlefield upon which the struggle for existence and the hard-won medals of culture and identity are won and lost is at once hyper-local and staggeringly broad. This suggests that any psychogeographical study of how one came to see themselves as a product of their landscape must be conducted with the rigor and methodology of a forensic survey of a massive crime scene. There is a springing forth of inductive ideas and customs from the ground beneath our feet and a hail of ballistic influences fired into the landscape from beyond. 

    To borrow from Tilley, “the experience of space is always shot through with temporalities, as spaces are always created, reproduced and transformed in relation to previously constructed spaces provided and established from the past. Spaces are intimately related to the formation of biographies and social relationships?”7

    Yes, but whose biographies and whose relationships? From where and when? 

    There’s a truism here. One as applicable in the local scale of the Upper Difficult Run Basin as the continent at large. Supposedly simple landscapes—be they geographical or psychological—are not so simple. 

    (Today’s Waples Mill Meadow–once the site of Fox’s Upper Mill)

    BOTTOM LINE: IT’S COMPLEX

    Places are complex adaptive systems—dynamics that self-organize around local conditions—achieving a temporary equilibrium only be to be punctuated by bouts of sheer chaos. Bolts emerge from the blue. Whether they’re viral ideas or tangible technologies, these invaders infiltrate and collide existing systems and new places are built from the wreckage of these collisions. 

    Something fresh emerges. Something most typically human. Adaptive machines capable of thought and deed are empowered to alter their physical world and be altered in turn. These survivors carry innate knowledge and walk, as Emerson said, “as prophecies of the coming age.” 

    Psychogeography is tricky, because the coping mechanisms with which people narrativize and execute their survival strategies—their behaviors, their identities, their aspirations, and their fears—are never uniform. No two people respond exactly the same way to phenomenon or place. Instead, the fleshy mediation machines caught in a material world that holds inordinate sway over their lives make their way through the world in a spiritual biography that doubles as a spatial codex. 

    Asking what it means to be from a place is better phrased with still more questions. What forces act upon us? What foundations are available to ground and shelter us? What existing strategies for endurance are at our disposal and what new paths can we adopt to adapt. 

    To achieve the best marriage of Debord’s “precise laws and specific effects” while accounting for the pleasing vagueness of ever-so-many externalities, our best strategy for reconstructing the psychogeography of the Upper Difficult Run Basin begins beneath our feet. 

    (poplars along Little Difficult Run)

    A LONG, TUMULTUOUS HISTORY

    Millions of years of destructive creation encapsulated in numerous Wilson Cycles of supercontinent formation and fracture are the colossal set pieces that frame the soil of Difficult Run. Igneous and metamorphic traces of catastrophic collisions, rifting, and orogeny knit together at the creek’s headwaters where Northern Piedmont Triassic Lowlands (64a) butt up against Piedmont Carolina Slate Belt (45c).8

    The Virginia Site and Soil Evaluation Curriculum emphasizes that the Carolina Slate Belt soils forming the underlayment for the Difficult Run hydrology basin are “somewhat less resistant to erosion…and physiography reflects these differences.”9 However minute these differences in erosion-susceptibility may have been initially, two hundred and fifteen million years of precipitation was enough time to extrapolate and exploit this variable into a prominent depression 57.7 square miles in size.10

    Today, the soils along the upper reaches of Difficult Run are predominantly loam of the Codorus, Meadowville, Wheaton and Glenelg varieties. The last of which is known for its high susceptibility to erosion. All are prone to flooding.11

    Soupy and irresolute, the soils that hosted the roads in northern and western Fairfax County were some of the worst encountered by soldiers during the Civil War. Pvt. Dick Simpson of the 3rd South Carolina occupied the area around Jermantown in early summer of 1861. On July 1, he described the roads as “muddy and slick” and his campsite as a “mud hole.”12

    Simpson was not the first to make this observation. Accounts of early highways in the area are invariably tarnished by their overwhelmingly poor and muddy condition.13 The well-established tradition of dismal roads inspired Federal cartographers to give Old Bad Road its name. 

    In fact, a preliminary Federal reconnaissance map of the area around modern Oakton made by Major W.R. Palmer in October of 1861 reports that “between Vienna and Flint Hill, the road is hilly, uneven, sunk at places from 6 to 8 feet below the adjoining ground, and badly drained.”14

    Beginning in colonial times, Difficult Run was established as something of a local backwater—an inaccessible and poorly known mystery space where rough access to markets made for diminished prospects. Socially and geographically, the sunken area was lower than the rest of the county. 

    Great plantations like Sully and Chantilly sit just above and beyond the belt of depressed micaceous schist from which the valley was ground. Beginning in the mid-18th century, Difficult Run was settled by people who were middling at best. The area was affordable, because it was ill-suited for agriculture.

    Nominally, the sandy loam that lined the flood plains of Difficult Run and its tributaries was perfect for the cultivation of tobacco. The cash crop was literally that—a form of currency in which debts, taxes, and commerce were transacted in the dried leaf. Rich harvests made for rich men. 

    Tobacco was grown here.15 Tenant farmers in Fairfax County were obligated to build “well framed tobacco barns” and rents on properties like those owned by George Mason stipulated payment of 630 pound of “good marketable tobacco.”16 Unfortunately, tobacco quickly depleted the soil of vital nitrogen and potash. In ideal conditions, an ambitious farmer could expect prime tobacco crimes for three to four years. Then the soil would be sour and unproductive.17

    Conditions along Difficult Run accelerated soil exhaustion. High heat and humidity augmented soil nitrification and oxidization so that top soil failed to form in fall to prevent critical nutrient erosion in spring.18 More importantly, the soils most susceptible to devastating erosion were found in freshly deforested areas perched on hillsides subject to mass wasting.19 It is no wonder that the Potomac is estimated to carry four hundred pounds of material away from every acre in its watershed each year.20

    A late 18th century lifelease executed by John Adams for one hundred and forty acres on Vale Road west of Hunter Mill is instructive. The initial per annum terms were 1000 pounds of tobacco to be paid to the land owner. In the 1840s, the tobacco requirement was struck in favor of thirty two dollars.21

    People in Difficult Run worked hard to clear their hilly, heavily forested land, and their struggle was handsomely rewarded for four years at best. After which, the sunken place in which they had chosen to live eroded still deeper, the finest nutrients were tapped from the soil, and all that was left were diminished prospects and hill-shadowed acreage that made for an uneven growing season. 

    By the 1840s, large swaths of Fairfax County lay abandoned by settlers whose initial frontier mentality had overworked the land and forced them to emigrate westwards.22 The psychology of this moment was grim. If conditions were such that it was easier to undertake the herculean move to Kentucky rather than salvage one’s farm, the situation must have been dire. In Difficult Run, the pre-existing sense of isolation and second class status would have heightened as the land emptied out, crops floundered, and property values plummeted. 

    The social landscape was exacerbated by the ambient murkiness of the place. Atmospheric conditions along Difficult Run have not changed substantially since pre-history. The area is still to this day prone to dense inversion layers. The forested creek bottoms hold thick fog that follows passing storms or dwells inexplicably for a day at a time while the higher ground on the plateaus near Fairfax and Chantilly remains clear. It is no wonder that few meaningful thoroughfares were cut through the Difficult Run bottoms. Abundant thickets, heavy oaks, and dense air still give the place a feeling reminiscent of a Washington Irving story. 

    Here spookiness and social standing colluded. Site selection was something of an obsession with Virginia gentry. Locating one’s plantation was a complicated and agonizing process, by which the wealthy were forced to balance certain prerogatives of class and practicality. 

    As attested to in George William Bagby’s satirical story “The Old Virginia Gentleman,” a true patrician of the Old Dominion would set his manor home a good distance from the main road. An elegant lane lined with woods separated the road—where tramps and commoners were frequent travelers—from a lavish home placed amidst trees.23 

    Certain compromises were made. The home would necessarily be high-sited to afford a cooling breeze on the veranda and through the windows. So too, the treachery of the road would be kept at a not-too-distant distance. Otherwise, the master of the home could not easily travel to the court house, state capitol, or the all-important commercial hub where his financial interests dovetailed into his social status. 

    Residents of the Difficult Run basin were not so burdened by these particular psychogeographic negotiations. No one who lived in the watershed had the luxury of these mental gymnastics. Instead, they were subject to site selection decisions made by their well-to-neighbors atop the hills that looked down—literally and figuratively—into dark and misty forests. 

    This want of agency expressed itself spatially. First and foremost in 1757 when Loudoun County was carved out of Fairfax County. At this initial partition, Difficult Run marked the boundary between the two counties. Until 1797 when the boundary was adjusted to its current limits near today’s Dulles Airport, everyone east of the creek in the valley beat a path to Alexandria and eventually Fairfax Court House to attend to business. Those west of Difficult Run tacked northwest to far off Leesburg.24 

    These minute distinctions long outlasted the temporary legal boundary. At the time of the Civil War, people of the Difficult Run Valley who lived on the western bank were said to reside in “Dranesville,” while those on the eastern bank were listed as residents of Fairfax. 

    It was a multipolar existence. One negotiated, built, and administered by wealthy and prominent citizens who envisioned Difficult Run as an insignificant place. Never a destination, always a hindrance, the watershed was traversed at points by major roads out of geographic necessity, not social obligation. 

    Beginning in 1795, Richard Bland Lee organized and promoted the company that would eventually build and fund the Little River Turnpike connecting Alexandria with the grain belt of Aldie by a route that crossed Difficult Run near today’s Fair Oaks Mall and not coincidentally passed directly in front of Lee’s home at Sully Plantation. The road opened in 1806.25

    In 1814 and 1815, a similar company financed the Warrenton Pike connecting lush wheat-producing districts in Fauquier County with Fairfax via Centreville on a trajectory that passed just above the highest headwaters of Difficult Run.26

    The Middle Turnpike uniting Leesburg with the grain port of Alexandria began construction in 1818 and opened completely in 1838. Bridging Difficult Run two and a half miles below Hunter’s Mill, the road was another avenue through, not to, the basin.27

    Difficult Run was a place “shot through” with the physical trappings of a world built to suit merchants, politicians, and first families elsewhere. Infrastructure tunneled through the place with little consideration or comment for the assemblage of middle and lower class farmers who staved off destitution not far from the wide macadamized thoroughfares that defined their world.

    Here the universal indomitability of the human spirit and a certain penchant from pragmatic opportunism rise up to resist the gravity of the affluent world built around Difficult Run. Not content to slip further and further behind, the citizens of the basin leaned in to their isolation and topographic disadvantanges to capitalize on their place apart. 

    Like a negative image of the plantation world of turnpikes and verandas that sat atop the county hierarchy, intrepid residents went to the very bottoms of the valley and established themselves as millers. Flood-prone creeks became motive power for the processing of local resources like wheat, timber, and wool that followed on the heels of the post-tobacco soil collapse. Better still, minor mill roads only grew in prominence as the vaunted turnpikes fell into disrepair and the burden of tolls encouraged shunpiking. 

    In the decade before the Civil War, the Alexandria, Loudoun & Hampshire Railroad began operating on a line that stopped at Hunter’s Mill and other points nearby where unclearable and hard to plant land had unwittingly created a well-spring of timber that was very profitable as a European export.28 

    As late as 1966, when much of the area between the Little River Turnpike and Hunter’s Mill voted overwhelmingly to refuse connection to the county sewer line, an idea of intentional isolation has influenced local identity along upper Difficult Run.29 

    Substantial initial differences in land quality and disposition destined residents throughout history to a fate of harder labor to achieve a level of prosperity often less than that of their higher neighbors. Still, an opportunistic aspiration has exerted itself at every stage where geographic inadequacies seem most bleak. 

    (gentle meanders in Difficult Run north of Fox’s Lower Mill)

    A SUNKEN PSYCHE OF PRIDE

    Partially raised from the soil and otherwise reactive to forces beyond control, the localized psyche of the Upper Difficult Run Basin features prominent inversions of logic that require equal parts ambition and exertion to sustain itself. A maze of roads set in dense, misty woods and heavy thickets are a far cry from the long, straight turnpike thoroughfares above. These conditions seem to inspire the cultivation of alternative bearings and inventive path making where the want of cardinal directions and quality surfaces inspires a comfort with the uncertainty of swamp and forest alike. 

    Despite long jags of near-desperation and inopportune collapses in economic standing, there is a pride nestled within this labyrinthine knowledge. Maybe navigating foggy trails encourages a comfort with uncertainty. Maybe living precariously just above hard-scrabble makes breaking with convention in order to survive all the easier. 

    An analysis of the company rolls of Mosby’s Rangers reveals a broad hodge podge of constituent parts. There was no single place determinant for a good guerrilla. Nonetheless, conditions amidst the twisted, neglected low lands of Difficult Run seemed to put a healthy chip on the shoulder of local boys whose heads were rich with a lifetime’s worth of first-hand knowledge about slipping through rough terrain. 

    CITATIONS
    1.  Coverley, Merlin. Psychogeography. London: Pocket Essentials, 2010. 88-89.
    2.  Tilley, Christopher. A Phenomenology of Landscapes. Oxford: Berg, 1994. 10-11.
    3.  Spirn, Anne Whiston. The Language of Landscape. New Haven: Yale Press, 1998. 167.
    4.  Deetz, James. In Small Things Forgotten: An Archaeology of Early American Life. New York City: Anchor Books, 1977. 34-35.
    5.  Dillard, Annie. Pilgrim at Tinker Creek. New York City: Harper Collins, 1990. 170.
    6.  Christophers, Brett, Rebecca Lave, Jamie Peck, and Marion Werner, eds. The Doreen Massey Reader. Newcastle upon Tyne: Agenda Publishing Limited, 2018. 155-156.
    7.  Tilley, Christopher. A Phenomenology of Landscapes. Oxford: Berg, 1994. 11.
    8.  Level III and IV Ecoregions of EPA Region 3. Scale 1:1,000,000. United States Environmental Protection Agency, 2003. https://gaftp.epa.gov/EPADataCommons/ORD/Ecoregions/reg3/reg3_eco.pdf 
    9.  Conta, Jay, Tom Saxton, Erik Severson, and Steve Thomas. Virginia Site and Soil Evaluation Curriculum. Richmond: Virginia Department of Health, 2014. https://vdh.virginia.gov/content/uploads/sites/20/2016/05/Virginia-Site-and-Soil-Evaluation-Curriculum_2014.pdf. 88.
    10.  Difficult Run Watershed. Scale not given. https://tysonslastforest.org/tysons-last-forest-stream-valley/environmental-benefits/difficult-run-watershed-old-courthouse-spring-branch-stream-valley/ 
    11.  “Description & Interpretive Guide to Soils in Fairfax County.” Department of Public Works and Environmental Services, Land Development Services, Published April 2009/Revised May 2013. https://fairfaxcounty.gov/landdevelopment/sites/landdevelopment/files/assets/documents/pdf/publications/soils_map_guide.pdf
    12.  Noe, Kenneth W. The Howling Storm: Weather, Climate, and the American Civil War. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2020. 28.
    13.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. 192 and 267.
    14.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. 30.
    15. ibid p. 21.
    16. ibid p. 14.
    17.  Craven, Avery Odelle. Soil Exhaustion as a Factor in the Agricultural History of Virginia and Maryland, 1606-1860. Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 2006. 32.
    18. ibid p. 28.
    19. ibid p. 16.
    20. ibid p. 28.
    21.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. 26-27.
    22.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. 163.
    23.  Bagby, George W. The Old Virginia Gentleman and Other Sketches. New York City: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1911. https://google.com/books/edition/The_Old_Virginia_Gentleman/kndCc2rkAMIC?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PR3&printsec=frontcover. 1. 
    24.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. p. 26.
    25. ibid p. 191-193.
    26.  “Fauquier and Alexandria Turnpike—Chronology of Events.” Buckland Preservation Society. https://bucklandva.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Fauquier-and-Alexandria-Turnpike-Chronology-Timeline-Final.pdf 
    27.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. 195-198.
    28.  Harwood, Jr., H.H., Rails to the Blue Ridge. Falls Church: Pioneer America Society, 1969. 
    29.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. p. 101.
  • Nothing Happened Here

    Nothing Happened Here

    Difficult Run along the Gerry Connolly Cross Country Trail in Fairfax County, Virginia.
    Difficult Run in Oakton, Virginia.

    The Cheesecake Factory

    Weirdly enough, the easiest place to start this story is at the Fair Oaks Mall Cheesecake Factory location in Fairfax, Virginia. 

    The shopping center is an unlikely base of operations. Fair Oaks opened in 1980—long before I made the scene and long after the Civil War.1 Cheesecake Factory made its appearance in the early-2000’s in a previously dead corner on the northern flank of the mall.

    From the gallery of glass windows jacketing the bar and the parking lot beyond, the horizon drops off into six lanes of Route 50. Once known as the Little River Turnpike, this highway debuted in the early-1800s as a resource thoroughfare connecting the grain merchants at Alexandria with the wheat producers of Loudoun County and the Shenandoah Valley beyond.2 

    For the entirety of my childhood (much of which was spent in a cul-de-sac of townhomes about a half mile north of the future Cheesecake Factory), the Little River Turnpike held the grandiose title “Lee-Jackson Memorial Highway.” In Loudoun County, the road became “John Mosby Highway.” 

    The name matters little to me. Not for want of social conscience, but because lip-service to dead men means less than the substance of a place. In this case, I’m more interested in the heavy belt of hardwood forests, wild thickets, swollen creek beds, and marshy flood plains that sprouted in the watershed just north of Route 50. 

    This is the first leg of Difficult Run, a 57.7 square mile basin that appears as a turquoise vein of low land on county topographical maps.3 Terrain nuance disappears from the vista at the front door of the Cheesecake Factory. A monolithic quilt of poplar crowns and oak leaves makes for a uniform blanket of green that sweeps northwards towards the Potomac thirteen miles distant. 

    (Do yourself a favor and open the Fairfax County lidar viewer for the best experience. The V-shaped ridge is abundantly clear in this screen cap, but Fairfax County’s GIS services department is unparalleled and exploring in another window is well worth the trouble.)

    A SHORT HISTORY OF A TOUGH CREEK

    The name “Difficult Run” appears as early as 1731.4 “Difficult” is a descriptor name that also functions as a warning. At its mouth where the creek collides with the raging Potomac just downstream of Great Falls, Difficult Run slots through a prominent channel that is “difficult” to navigate.

    (An excellent 1918 drawing of Difficult Run at Great Falls from the LoC.

    Nearer to Fair Oaks mall, the creek is less imposing. It’s best defined by what it’s not: prominent. 

    Beginning at a gentle apex near the Fairfax County Government Center, two ridges fork into a V. The diverging heights are the most prominent landforms visible from the northern parking lot at Fair Oaks. 

    To the west, Ox Hill, once the highest height in the county (now eclipsed by the dump a mile south), commands the ridge that runs northwesterly along a path held by the West Ox Road and Reston Parkway.5 Beyond that ridge is the Culpeper Basin—a hundred mile long bowl of rolling hills, open land, and rich crystalline soils that mark the Virginia Piedmont.6 

    To the east of the mall and just slightly north, Old Glory waves on a flagpole perched atop the headquarters of the National Rifle Association. Located at the intersection of Waples Mill Road and Route 66, the main artery into D.C., the building marks a meandering curve of thrusts and hill clusters along which the Jermantown and Chain Bridge Roads trace northeast to the other historic heights commanding Fairfax County—Tyson’s Corner. 

    Every drop of rain that falls between these two ridges gives tribute to the Potomac via Difficult Run. It is a remarkable trap of low earth bearing silent witness to hundreds of millions of years of division and collision. 

    There was once a massive line of volcanos to the east, running north south along the current 95 corridor. When continents collided to form Pangea, the force of the tectonic junction brought those mountains to their knees.7 

    Today, ancient seams of igneous rock—robust granite and confusing quartz—line the hills on either side of the Difficult Run. In between, the earth is composed of micaceous schist—a metamorphic rock created from igneous that has been subject to intense pressure. Here, the earth pinched and the weight of the world cracked this place. Difficult Run fell here because tectonic forces weakened bedrock into something malleable, shifting, vaguely unstable and subject to erosion.8 

    There is a tremendous history of creation cut with conflagration and assault along Difficult Run—a place where it can be fairly said that the rival forces of the Civil War battled over the unresolved collision and separation of North America and Africa.

    Geologic boundaries along Ox Road in Fairfax County, Virginia.
    (Geologic boundaries along the line of West Ox Road per an excellent GIS resource the Virginia Department of Energy published.)

    MY AREA OF OPERATIONS

    With the right eyes, the entire world is fascinating, but I have to set limits for myself. 

    Otherwise, I get carried away. 

    I cannot afford to do justice to the entire 57.7 square miles of the Difficult Run Basin. It would take a lifetime. Instead, I’ve compromised. I will entertain history of any dimension and any time period, so long as it pertains to the tight geographic constraints of the Upper Difficult Run Basin. 

    This place name is not in common usage, but is relatively easy to define. It is the section of the Difficult Run watershed bounded by commercial landscapes. A ring of shopping centers holds the forested valley like two hands cupping a rinse of fresh water. 

    Beginning at the Wegmans north of Route 29, skirting chic Fairfax Corner, flagging Fair Oaks Mall, narrowly avoiding abominably anti-historic Fairfax Town Center and clutching against a Harris Teeter mini-mall, the western ridge boundary shoots towards the Fox Mill Shopping Center and the prominent planned shopping destinations in Reston. From Fair Oaks Mall, the opposite ridge strides eastward to embrace the sprawling and never-cool suburban big box haven at Jermantown before lacing together a string of grocery stores, Starbucks, disparate mini-malls, stand alone chain restaurants and retail banks through Oakton into Vienna. 

    Across the top, the W&OD Trail—itself a shadow of a pre-war railroad bringing the area’s raw resources to market—denotes the limit of the Upper Difficult Run basin. 

    In the thirteen square miles between these lines, you cannot purchase so much as a cup of coffee. The place is barren of retail and restaurants. No gas stations offer up unleaded to desperate motorists. There are no bars in which to wet one’s whistle. 

    This want of formal brick and mortar commerce is significant and defining. A 1966 vote by residents of the Upper Difficult Run basin west of Hunter Mill Road put the kibosh on a proposed connection to county sewer services.9 The rest, as they say, is history. 

    There are farmhouses here. Some of them dating to the early 18th century. For the most part, the homes here are clustered in medium-scale developments ranging from post-war ramblers to full-on, mega-monstrosity McMansions. However, the want of sewer service compels all builders to comply with codes dictating no less than acre lots for each home to accommodate septic leach fields. 

    So too, individual fifty-unit neighborhoods have never been able to fully preempt existing road networks. It is painfully obvious to anyone who frequents the warren of twisting, diving, narrow, and ultimately treacherous roads that lace through the Upper Difficult Run Basin that this place has never been subject to a decisive master plan executed with bulldozers and berms. 

    The one possible exception is Hunter Mill Road, a relatively well-kept corridor darting into the heart of Difficult Run from its origin at the Chain Bridge Road in Oakton. Known to pre-date European settlement, today’s Hunter Mill Road already knew many iterations before it became the prime axis of colonial English agriculture in the area.10 

    Detail from Herman Boyd's 1859 "Map of the State of Virginia" detailing Hunter Mill
    (Detail from Herman Boye’s 1859 “Map of the State of Virginia” plainly shows a long-arcing Hunter Mill Road routing up from Chain Bridge Road at modern Oakton to a place called Coon’s Ferry (likely today’s Conn Island).)

    ROADS, PATHS, and PATTERNS

    The Hunter Mill Road was one of a few famous “ridge roads” that wound through the dense forests of prehistoric Fairfax County. It is significant, because it offers a direct route from the heart of the county to a ford of the Potomac at Seneca Falls. The indigenous groups of Northern Virginia were known traders who existed as a people between. Material resources and cultures intersected here. Hunter Mill Road is one of the corridors where commingling commercial and cultural interests interfaced. 

    Not only did the road provide access across the river, but it connected people to a lithic deposit buried in Oakton. Two hundred and fifty million years ago, in the orogeny phase of the great volcanic chain that once towered above the area, a throat of magma cooled into a vein of white quartz beneath what is now Marbury Road in Oakton.11 

    European settlers mistook this exposed rock for flint and gave the place its first name: Flint Hill. For millennia prior, this same stone was prized by natives for the creation of tools. Similar white quartz appears in archaeological debitage pits throughout the Potomac Basin.

    This lithic determinism is perhaps a prime motivator for the creation of Hunter Mill Road. It’s mere existence—potentially as a noticeable deformation or traceable declivity guided European settlement and the establishment of early metes and bounds. 

    By the mid-1700s, this well-travelled thoroughfare was bisected by a legal corridor. The county cut a road to facilitate travel from its western districts to the first courthouse at Freedom Hill, now Tyson’s corner. The “Lawyers Road” as it was and is known, cuts roughly east-west through the Difficult Run basin. Historically, it crested to the Ox Hill ridge and slicing down towards modern Chantilly and Centreville.

    These intersecting axes happened to collide near a most-fortunate funnel of low land where the flow of Difficult Run could be channeled into motive power for the processing of both timber and grain. Beginning with Broadwater’s Mill, a crop of ambitious middle-class service providers began to develop infrastructure for the processing of raw resources coming out of the uneven terrain of Upper Difficult Run. This commercial landscape was fully integrated into the greater sphere of Alexandria, Virginia—a prime shipping port for the export of both timber and grain. 

    20th century photograph of the water wheel at Colvin Mill.
    (A 1920 photograph of the waterwheel at nearby Colvin Run Mill— the best preserved and interpreted historic mill site in the area. LoC.

    By 1861, the people who lived around Hunter’s Mill and the products they produced had created a socio-commercial landscape that was known, mapped, and easily-utilized. Travelled by both JEB Stuart’s Cavalry and the Union 6th Corps during the war, the Hunter Mill Road was also the inspiration for a Herman Melville poem.12 Today, the Hunter Mill Defense League has rigorously documented and disseminated historical information about this well-recorded section of the Upper Difficult Run Basin.

    A much different historiographical paradigm exists south of Hunter’s Mill and above it on Difficult Run. This area was poorly known, incompletely mapped, and largely written off for much of its history as a muddy collection of bad roads, middling farms, and two apparently insignificant mill complexes. 

    Here, nothing happened during the Civil War. Or at least that is the dominant narrative established by the otherwise gifted and dedicated local historians who devoted their time to this basin. 

    NOTHING TO SEE HERE

    The official history of the hamlet of Vale (a post office-centered village once located at the corner of modern Fox Mill and Stuart Mill Roads) offers this incredibly curious take on the region’s non-impact in the Civil War: 

    “There is no convincing evidence that the area now comprising the Fox Mill Communities was the site of any major skirmish or significant action during the Civil War. In fact, it was described by one Union Officer ‘as a charming region, not much desolated by the war..being rather out of the beaten track of the armies.”13 

    Manifest desolation has long been the yardstick of Civil War significance for Fairfax-oriented historians. The county’s official history describes “land ‘like a prairie’” where hungry armies denuded the landscape of fences or dwellings for miles.14 Extant sources from the war years convey a sense of shock at how eaten away once prosperous Fairfax was. 

    One yankee stationed in Fairfax in 1863 wrote, “No fire, even if it should burn every house in our village of Brattleboro could be half as desolating to the place as war has been to this place of Virginia. Houses, cattle, fences and inhabitants nearly all gone—lands desolate running up to weeds and briars, and no encouragement for the future. The people here look dispirited, and ruined, as in fact they are. I will stop for words fail to convey any adequate idea of the picture one sees on every hand. Desolation is the word that most nearly conveys the idea, but that is hardly sufficiently emphatic.”15

    Confederate POWs at Fairfax Court House. LoC.
    (A fantastic Timothy O’Sullivan photograph of Confederate POWs assembled between Federal guards in June of 1863 at Fairfax Court House. Note the wide open vistas in the rear. LoC.)

    With such accounts held as lodestars, a logical complex has organized around the assumption that any place spared this fate was somehow able to withdraw from participating in an all-consuming conflict.

    This, I contend, is a logical fallacy and the origin of a historical misrepresentation. There was no opting out of the Civil War in Fairfax County. 

    Instead, we should consider three scenarios to explain why the Upper Difficult Run Basin near Fox Mill—about a mile north of today’s Cheesecake Factory—was spared. 

    1. This place was unknown to either army—both of which had ravenous appetites for foodstuffs and wood.
    2. This place was protected—by one army or another for a variety of reasons.
    3. Both of the above are true simultaneously and a group of people conspired to keep the area around Fox Mill apart and protected. 

    Grappling with these possibilities incentivizes a unique opportunity to trace historic roads and paths in the Upper Difficult Run Basin. Place problems are axial problems, after all. By studying the development and layout of local axes that were built up from pre-history, modified, borrowed, absorbed, and co-opted by local interests, it is possible to recontextualize observations about wartime ecology not as an exemption, but as evidence of meaningful efforts on behalf of pro-confederate families living in the area. 

    INTRODUCING OLD BAD ROAD

    (A close-up of the 1862 McDowell map zeroes in on the apparent no-man’s-land in modern day Oakton, Virginia, where Old Bad Road slots along the trace of present Vale Road. LoC.)

    The key element in this equation is Old Bad Road. Known today as Vale Road, a winding collection of ninety-degree turns set amidst bulging oak trees and meandering floodplains, Old Bad Road was developed in the 1840s to unite farms on Hunter Mill Road with the Fox Mill Complex and Ox Road to the south and west.16 By 1862, when it appeared with its dubious and less than flattering nom de guerre on the Federal McDowell Map of 1862, the road had fallen into patent disrepair.17 

    Still, from a shape perspective, Old Bad Road was an important piece of connective tissue bridging ridge roads through a little travelled and less than hospitable valley that separated the Federal supply hub at Fairfax from the partisan-rich plains to the west. 

    The name itself—Old Bad Road—almost feels obvious, especially in the context of crafty Confederate guerrillas who thrived on misperception. Either this thoroughfare was an irrelevant wasteland or a critical corridor—the interior line and rosetta stone that unlocks a critical mystery. 

    What opacities lurk along Old Bad Road exist at the interface where one man’s legacy mapped on to the landscape itself.

    ENTER MOSBY

    John Singleton Mosby—the Gray Ghost—was an acerbic, unconventional, hyper-effective partisan leader. His service in Fairfax County began in the Fall of 1861 when he picketed many of the roads surrounding Fairfax Court House.18 He returned in late August 1862 when JEB Stuart’s command scouted Stonewall Jackson’s advance at the Battle of Chantilly.19 Four months later, Mosby accompanied and preceded Stuart on a raid to Fairfax Station that ended with Confederate cavalry sweeping up the Hunter Mill Road and across Lawyers Road to Frying Pan—a church just over the western ridge bounding Difficult Run’s watershed.20 

    Armed with Stuart’s blessing in early January of 1863, Mosby and a squad of hand picked me initiated a guerrilla campaign in northern Virginia. What occurred over the next two years wrote Mosby’s name into Confederate legend. Credited with occupying and absorbing the interest of as many as 50,000 Federal troops and thus prolonging the war, John Mosby sewed chaos within yankee lines.21 He and his men dominated parts of Fauquier, Loudoun, Prince William, Shenandoah, and Fairfax Counties to the point that the region was informally christened “Mosby’s Confederacy.”22 

    (Major Mosby. LoC.)

    PLACE PREJUDICE

    When it comes to mapping Mosby’s Confederacy, there is an established place prejudice at work. Mosby memory privileges a romantic impression of a swashbuckling, devil-may-care cavalier riding hell bent for leather over hill and dale on the sweeping plains of Virginia’s open Piedmont. 

    This is partially true. After all, the three locations where John Mosby was most apt to rendezvous his men—Upperville, Rector’s Crossroads, and Frying Pan Meeting House—were nestled in one corner or another of rolling hills or open fields where a gray horsemen at a gallop feels like a nice aesthetic compliment.23 

    Picturesque panoramas suit Civil War memorialization. Both Hollywood and historians have been happy to lend their weight to painting such portraits. Even authorities in the Mosby field gravitate toward these scenic depictions that place Mosby atop a horse riding masterfully through open ground.

    Virgil Carrington Jones, the long-departed dean emeritus of Mosby studies, offers this place-specific scene by means of typifying the partisan commander’s behavior in a certain style site: 

    “The strip of country spreading toward the Blue Ridge from the Potomac at Washington, the area from Dranesville and Leesburg to Warrenton, was ideal ground for cavalry fighting. It was made up of beautiful vistas, bare rolling hills, little clumps of trees. Stone and rail fences girdled occasional wheat fields and orchards, sprinkled about expansive pasture lands. Villages were small, far apart. In the western part of this stretch is a valley, small compared to the Valley of Virginia. It is bordered on the east by the Bull Run and Catoctin mountains and on the west by the Blue Ridge, the mountain wall passing across the state from the Potomac to the southwest. This range rises to above 2,000 feet and is broken at intervals by gaps through which roads lead to the main valley. There is Snicker’s Gap, opening the way to Winchester; Ashby’s Gap; Manassas Gap, where the Manassas Gap Railroad from Manassas Junction to Strasburg and other valley points tops the wall; still farther south, Chester Gap, around which the hills drop to afford passage to Front Royal, and finally, Thornton’s Gap, making way for the road from Culpeper west. Through this country Mosby had determined to operate. It was rich and pastoral and would afford his command a not too difficult subsistence. But more important, the towering Blue Ridge and the lower-lying Bull Run range, within easy gallop of each other, would  enable him to find quick cover when hard pushed by the enemy.”24

    This geographic context is only a partial truth, one warped by the desire to imagine Mosby as a miniature hero fighting on “ideal ground.” But such picturesque (and predictable) scenery was not Mosby’s forte. Furthermore, a band of rascals with pistols on open ground presumes a certain level of engrained ineptitude on the part of their qualified and very well-equipped federal opponents. 

    There’s something missing, a gap that has been shellacked over with a narrative fallacy. 

    Dulles Airport Under Construction 1960
    (Try to ignore the majesty of Eero Saarinen’s iconic Dulles Airport coming to fruition in 1960 and focus on the uniformity of the distant terrain manifest in the perfectly horizontal horizon of tree crowns. The flat, sweeping ground of the Culpeper Basin was a prime motivator in the selection of the site for the grand international airport and a definitive terrain feature for irregular cavalry operations in the same space during the War of the Rebellion. LoC.)

    PIEDMONT vs BRIDLE PATH

    Taken at face value, the Piedmont privilege inherent to Mosby stories creates a positional puzzle. If Mosby was a conventional cavalryman dashing about in the shadow of the Blue Ridge, how was it that so many of his most famous exploits occurred in the area around Fairfax Court House where thick forests and thicketed creek beds like Difficult Run are the predominant land form? 

    This is the underbelly, the shadow realm of the Mosby story. One hinted at and implied, but never fully fleshed out. It is alluded to and passed quickly over. Jones himself makes a fleeting, one sentence reference to the “bramble thickets” of Fairfax County as an occasional Mosby venue.25 

    “Bridle path” is the magic phrase used to fill in critical ambiguities about how Mosby and his men traversed rough, undeveloped terrain in Fairfax County.26 The Federals preferred the descriptor “thicket” to refer to the marginal spaces where dense-packed thorns prevented meaningful pursuit of single or banded Confederate guerrillas. Both are vague enough to be of little help. 

    In the context of Difficult Run, the bridle path hypothesis is especially vexing because historical records drawn from official wartime reports have John Mosby and his men appearing in force on one side of the basin only to disappear and reemerge unseen and unfollowed on the opposite side of the watershed. Mosby was here and no one seems terribly interested in understanding how he passed over and through the land.

    A report from Colonel C.R. Lowell, Jr of the 2nd Massachusetts dated August 12, 1863 is particularly instructive. 

    “Mosby’s and White’s men—together about 140 strong—came down Little River Turnpike the day before yesterday, and passed that night near Gum Springs. Moved down yesterday forenoon through Ox Road Junction toward Flint Hill. Hearing that our pickets were there, turned to the north again, and passing through Vienna by Mills Crossroads to Little River Pike, near Gooding’s Tavern, captured one sutler’s train there between 3 and 4 p.m. and another about a mile farther east. An hour later half plundered some of the wagons, took all the horses and mules, and started back in a hurry through Vienna, toward Hunter’s Mill. 

    “About 1 mile south of the mill they divided, one-half going toward Dranesville, the other by Hunter’s Mill, nearly down to Chantilly, then turned to the right, and, I presume, passed through Gum Springs early this a.m.”27 

    To interpret that report for those more accustomed to the 21st century, Mosby and his men camped on the broad flatland that would one day serve as runway for Dulles Airport before threading a needle across successive phase lines of known Federal patrols on the Centreville Road and West Ox Road whence he descended into the Difficult Run Basin at Ox Junction—now the misshapen three-way corner of Waples Mill, West Ox, and Vale Roads. 

    (A Confederate map from 1864 keys in on “Ox Road Junction” as a crucial intersection. Note that the Rebel engineers refer to “Old Bad Road” as “Old Road.” At this point, the trace had been in formal state-approved service for less than twenty years. LoC.)

    In 1863, this was the place where Old Bad Road intersected the road to Fox Mill and Jermantown. 

    Here, Mosby disappeared. Encountering Federal pickets on the other side of Difficult Run watershed, Mosby doubled back and sidled along unknown avenues (because no direct route was known to exist between the objectives listed in the report) and again threaded his way unseen between prominent federal patrols on Hunter Mill Road and the Tysons-Vienna-Oakton line. 

    From there, Mosby proceeded as far as Annandale where he marauded and captured before returning via Difficult Run at Hunter’s Mill. 

    This sequence of events and the language used to convey it express Difficult Run as both terra incognita for Yankee cavalry and a honey hole full of maneuverability potentials for Mosby and his men.

    My sleep suffers and my brain aches from the tantalizing implications and want of sources to back up the obvious—Difficult Run was an opportunity space for Confederates and a no-go zone for Federals. Bridle paths alone do not suffice to explain this phenomenon. 

    A DOSSIER OF FRIENDLY FARMERS

    Robert O’Neill—today’s preeminent scholar of Federal responses to John Mosby—offers a doctrinal hint. Mosby and his men used “friendly locals and little used paths.”28 One such local—John Underwood—was Mosby’s favorite scout, and a woodsman who frequented western Fairfax County before the war such that people said he “knew paths not even rabbits had found.”29

    Still vague, these tidbits are promising hints in that they imply a reservoir of personal relationships and firsthand knowledge that located and interpreted spatial dispositions for Mosby. 

    Strip away Mosby myth and the stage scenery of post-war hagiographies and a more detailed, factual understanding of people and place in Difficult Run forms around an interesting body of research. 

    Relationships forged between economic interests, religious sects, and educational ties that were cemented generationally and solidified by marriage flesh out a more compelling map of the Upper Difficult Run Basin. 

    Booms, busts, soil exhaustion, capital flows, and fickle fate had by the opening of the war shaped the valley north of today’s Cheesecake Factory into a multi-faceted timber economy. It was then a place where sawmills and investment forests speckled with sheep, some grain, and other post-tobacco chattel mirrored an elaborate kinship network of devoted Confederates. Sons of these families translated boyhood adventures and professional journeys that laced together hardwood assets with processing facilities and commercial centers into meaningful knowledge that was leveraged in Confederate service with John Mosby. 

    Two brothers born into the mill-owning Fox family—Frank and Charles Albert—as well as their neighbors—Phillip Lee and his brother, Thomas—enlisted early after their older sister Mary’s husband Jack Barnes—one of Mosby’s best scouts—joined the Gray Ghost. Their neighbor, a carpenter named Minor Thompson, was already in the ranks. 

    (Frank Fox on Mosby’s muster rolls.)

    Farther up Old Bad Road, James Gunnell and his cousin, George West Gunnell, brought valuable knowledge of the Little Difficult Run tributary and unlocked a web of Gunnell places along Hunter Mill Road. More critically, two Trammells—sons of a long-ago milling family centered around Hunter Mill and occupants of farms along Old Bad Road—eagerly served Mosby. As did their brother-in-law, the one and only John Underwood, whose own brother and fellow woodsman, Bushrod, offered critical experience navigating the warren of timber trails along Difficult Run.30

    Farther to the west, Charles Turley’s family owned a massive plantation where Confederates could use a railroad cut to slip out of the Culpeper Basin towards Lawyers Road where both Saunders and Clarke had grown up.31 

    Just east of Difficult Run, Albert Wrenn—cousin and nephew of landowners along Old Bad Road and Ox Road and a boyhood friend of Frank Fox—lived nearly adjacent to fellow ranger Frank Williams along the AL&H railroad just on the other side of the Chain Bridge Road demarcating Difficult Run.32 

    These men and the places and people they knew was a world that was little recorded and less preserved. Nonetheless, the patterns of association and axes of travel they utilized have left marks—literal and otherwise—on the earth. 

    HISTORIC DESIRE PATHS

    Permissible travel, a certain freedom of movement in the Upper Difficult Run can be partially contextualized. Bad roads and an expensive turnpike encouraged enterprising farmers and their crafty sons to articulate inventive routes around the toll both located at the Difficult Run Bridge over the Little River Turnpike just northeast of the Cheesecake Factory. 

    Shunpiking and notoriously poor alternative roads inspired the creation of desire paths connecting people directly with places where they wanted to be without the need for official sanction.33 This practice continued well into the 20th century when a high school opened in Oakton and locals in the Vale district remembered that few of the school children took the roads, preferring instead to cut their way over field and through forests to shave off a little time.34 

    What facilitates a connection? How do we recognize this relational fingerprint in records or on the land? How did these people see the world and what landmarks or practicalities underscored the patterns they used to maneuver through the land? 

    These are the essential questions that penetrate the veil of Mosby mystique and unlock new thinking and new cartography. In the light of these insights, creeks, paths, draws, railroad beds, fence gaps, and game trails all invite scrutiny and offer fragments of a larger puzzle. Piece it together and you get more than a Mosby map. You get a localized memento of a lost world at a critical juncture.

    Roads, thoroughfares, avenues, and paths cut across the landscape with purpose. These spatial relationships and the traces offer clues to a Civil War mystery drenched in still more curious questions about people, the places they create, and the ways that places produce people in turn. 

    Untouched farms in an otherwise wasted land are remarkable things. Think of them as a gateway to a larger maze where complex landscapes weave together. 

    One thing is clear in the forested valley beyond the Cheesecake Factory: something happened here. 

    NOTES

    1. Sears #1814 Fair Oaks Mall Scrapbook, 1979-1988. Collection MSS 02-13. Virginia Room. Fairfax County Library. 
    2.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. p. 80.
    3.  “Tyson’s Last Forest: Difficult Run Watershed” Neighborhood Coalition to Save Tyson’s Last Forest. Https://tysonslastforest.org. 
    4.  Shands, Katherine Snyder. “Fairfax County Before the American Revolution.” HFSC Yearbook 2 (1952-53): 3-17. https://archive.org/details/hfssc-yearbook-volume-2/
    5.  Strat, Patricia. “People and Places of the Navy Community Fairfax County, Virginia, 1887-1984.” Fairfax County History Commission, February 22, 2019. https://fairfaxcounty.gov/history-commission/sites/history-commission/files/assets/documents/resources/navy-community-fairfax-county.pdf#page=1
    6.  Aeromagnetic Map of the Culpeper Basin and Vicinity, Virginia and Maryland. 1:125,000 Scale. United States Geological Survey. 1981. https://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1981/0472/plate-1.pdf 
    7.  Grymes, C. “Virginia Places: Physiographic Regions of Virginia.” https://virginiaplaces.org 
    8.  “Description & Interpretive Guide to Soils in Fairfax County.” Department of Public Works and Environmental Services, Land Development Services, Published April 2009/Revised May 2013. https://fairfaxcounty.gov/landdevelopment/sites/landdevelopment/files/assets/documents/pdf/publications/soils_map_guide.pdf 
    9.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. p. 101.
    10.  ibid 16.
    11.  ibid 11. 
    12.  The War of the Rebellion: Official Records of the Civil War. Ohio State University eHistory. Serial 043, Page 0143, Chapter XXXIX. ‘The Gettysburg Campaign.’ <https://ehistory.osu.edu/books/official-records/043/0143 >
    13.  Craig, John, Grace Karis, Susan Leigh, Bonnie Owen, and Darlene Williamson, eds. “Vale History: From Money’s Corner Through Difficult.” Fox Mill Communities Preservation Association History Committee. 1991-1995. Joy S. Starr Collection on Vale History. Collection 06-18. Virginia Room. Fairfax County Library.
    14.  Netherton, Nan, Donald Sweig, Janice Artemel, Patricia Hicks, and Patrick Reed. Fairfax County, Virginia: A History. Fairfax: Fairfax County Board of Supervisors, 1978. p. 371. 
    15.  Cummings, Charles. “Letters of Charles Cummings, Provost-Marshal of Fairfax Courthouse, Winter 1862-1863. HSFC Yearbook 22 (1989-1990): 45-69. https://archive.org/details/hsfc-yearbook-volume-22/ p. 65. 
    16.  Fairfax County Road Petitions. Box 1: 1844-1908. Historic Records Center. Fairfax County Courthouse.
    17.  McDowell, Irwin. Military Reconnaissance of Virginia. 1/24000. 1863. “Library of Congress: Civil War Maps.” < https://www.loc.gov/resource/g3880.cw0481400/?r=0.679,0.499,0.114,0.067,0>
    18.  Mosby, John Singleton. Reminiscences. New York: Dodd, Mead & Company, 1887. p. 15. 
    19.  The War of the Rebellion: Official Records of the Civil War. Ohio State University eHistory. Serial 016, Page 0744. Chapter XXIV. ‘Operations in N. VA., W. VA., and MD.’
    20.  “Mosby’s Rangers: Lessons in Intelligence and Special Operations.” Center for the Study of Intelligence, Central Intelligence Agency, 2015. https://cia.gov/readingroom/docs/MOSBYS%20RANGERS%20%20LESSONS%20I%5B14652261%5D.pdf  p. 36. 
    21.  Russell, Charles Wells, ed. The Memoirs of Colonel John S. Mosby. Boston: Little, Brown, and Company, 1917. https://docsouth.unc.edu/fpn/mosby/mosby.html p. ix. 
    22.  Seipel, Kevin H. Rebel. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983. p. 123. 
    23.  Evans, Thomas J. And James M. Moyer. Mosby’s Confederacy: A Guide to the Roads and Sites of Colonel John Singleton Mosby. Shippensburg: White Mane Publishing, 1991. p. 44. This specifies Frying Pan. A raft of material is available elsewhere indicating the importance of Rector’s Crossroads (specifically in the earlier stages of Mosby’s operations) and Upperville as rendezvous sites.
    24.  Jones, Virgil Carrington. Ranger Mosby. Chapel Hill, University of North Carolina Press, 1944. p. 72-73. 
    25.  ibid 50.
    26.  ibid 147.
    27.  The War of the Rebellion: Official Records of the Civil War. Ohio State University eHistory. Serial 049, Page 0350. “Operations in N.C., VA., W. VA., MD., and PA.” https://ehistory.osu.edu/books/official-records/049/0350 
    28.  O’Neill, Robert F. Chasing Jeb Stuart and John Mosby. Jefferson: McFarland & Company Inc, 2012. p. 231. 
    29.  Jones, Virgil Carrington. Ranger Mosby. Chapel Hill, University of North Carolina Press, 1944.  p. 90.
    30.  Keen, Hugh C. And Horace Mewborn. 43rd Battalion Virginia Cavalry Mosby’s Command. Lynchburg: H.E. Howard, Inc, 1993. Invaluable annotated roster at rear of text.
    31.  Mitchell, Beth. 1860 Fairfax County Maps. 1977. “Fairfax County History Commission. “ < https://fairfaxcounty.gov/history-commission/1860-Fairfax-county-maps > panel 36-1 sites the Turley holdings and you can find details on the Turley’s prominence at Gamble, Robert S. Sully: The Biography of a House. Chantilly: Sully Foundation, 1973. p. 76. 
    32.  Milliken, Ralph LeRoy. “Then We Came to California.” HSFC Yearbook 8 (1962-1963): 1-44. https://archive.org/details/hfsc-yearbook-volume-8 p. 26 accounts for childhood friendship and Mitchell, Beth. 1860 Fairfax County Maps. 1977. “Fairfax County History Commission. “ < https://fairfaxcounty.gov/history-commission/1860-Fairfax-county-maps > panel 49-2 accounts for Albert Wrenn in the pre-war period.
    33.  Crowl, Heather K. “A History of Roads in Fairfax County, Virginia: 1608-1840. Masters Thesis, (American University, 2002). p. 89.
    34.  Evans, D’anne A. The Story of Oakton, Virginia: 1758-1990. Oakton: The Optimist Club of Oakton, 1991. p. 61. 
  • Writing John Mosby

    Writing John Mosby

    Full-bearded Lt. Col. John Singleton Mosby.

    Walter White, Tony Soprano, Jimmy McNulty, Al Swearengen, Don Draper—though none of these icons of narrative TV ever swore allegiance to the Southern States, they are Mosby Men insofar as they blur the line between villainy and heroism. 

    Each is capable of every emotion and compels audiences with both minute idiosyncrasies and a capacity for sweeping gestures. In short, they are human: fully fleshed-out, high-fidelity, total bandwidth vessels of the species. As is the case, they are necessarily complex.

    Nothing is so essential in a captivating character than complexity. This, I contend, is why John Mosby continues to cut his way into the firmament of American legends while other, more statuary icons of the War of the Rebellion fade. 

    Attempts Were Made

    In Hollywood, the allure of Mosby has exerted its influence before. 

    There is a long-standing rumor that Shelby Foote wrote a trilogy of screenplays for Stanley Kubrick surrounding Mosby and his role in the brutal Shenandoah Valley campaigns during the final year of the Civil War. 

    In 2015, the option for the scripts apparently passed to Marc Forster (Monster’s Ball, World War Z). This project is almost certainly guaranteed to die-on-the-vine in a Hollywood eager to distance itself from both budget-heavy practical effects films and Confederate heroism. 

    Mosby may have missed the silver screen, but the 1950s found the partisan ranger resurrected and widely distributed in a straight-to-syndication TV series titled The Gray Ghost. A high-B actor, Tod Andrews, plays Mosby in a fundamentally hokey show as formulaic as it is rich in day-for-night shots.

    These near misses not withstanding, it should be said: John Singleton Mosby remains a character cut from the cloth of every great prestige television protagonist.

    John Singleton Mosby as a Major
    Clean-shaved Major Mosby. LoC.

    A COMPLEX MAN

    He came off as bitter; a snob with the sharpest of tongues. Mosby suffered fools heavily and communicated this distaste openly. “Ipecac,” was his favorite retort to perceived inanities.1 The lawyer-turned-raider behaved as if every wasted word pushed him closer to vomitting. 

    Despite this, John Mosby showed the greatest fondness for those in his inner circle. He spent an inordinate amount of his post-war life communicating with men who had served under him during the conflict.2 Yet, Mosby eschewed and avoided any and all reunions of the Ranger unit that bore his name. They were trivial and frivolous things, he reasoned. Then one year he showed up and delivered a speech in which he battled emotion as he listed the names of lieutenants who had died under his command.3

    The cynic was apparently sentimental at heart. That should have been a surprise to no one. 

    Mosby was individualistic, contrarian, suspicious of authority, and hostile to hidebound institutions. Yet, save one period before the war when he hung his shingle as a freelance country lawyer in Bristol, Virginia, Mosby’s life was spent in devoted service to governments, causes, and corporations.4 From soldier to appointee to bureaucratic reformer to authentic wonk, the Gray Ghost was first and foremost a company man. 

    Mosby’s name is most commonly associated with the Confederacy, but he was a staunch, vocal, and venomous Unionist. He, like most of his fellow Virginians, probably cast a ballot for John Bell in the 1860 election. After Fort Sumter, his neighbors were shocked to see him enlist in a Confederate cavalry unit.5 

    He did not fit in. Especially in the cavalry—a rich man’s branch festooned with dash and swagger. Mosby slouched and was poorly attired. He and Fount Beattie—an original Mosby Ranger—were the only two in their company of the 1st Virginia Cavalry to accept shabby penitentiary uniforms (designed for, made by, and affecting the aesthetic of Virginia state prisoners) in 1861.6 

    Barring his lukewarm stint in a pre-war militia unit, Mosby had no military background. Still, he was one of six men in the company of renowned frontier fighter and outpost cavalryman Grumble Jones to receive a pistol on the eve of First Manassas.7 His discretion and powers of observation qualified him to be specially equipped and hence ready to perform the most dangerous duties. 

    Jones—himself a schlub known for his poor attitude, harsh demeanor, and shabby dress—raised Mosby as a fighter, but JEB Stuart made Mosby into the man of legend he became.8 

    Though Stuart and Mosby were born the same year a few hundred miles apart in the Virginia Piedmont, the two had little in common. 

    Stuart was gallant and glorious. His gestures were as grand as his presence on the battlefield. Stuart’s entire life was a metonym for a cult of romanticism that shellacked the harsh realities of American Southern frontier life with the gilt of grandeur and honor. He was Sir Walter Scott’s Ivanhoe incarnate, a knight-errant who did battle by day and serenaded ladies at night. He charged his way into the pantheon of southern heroes. 

    Mosby, on the other hand, lurked, plotted, connived, and struck. Regarded by Federal foes as little more than a bushwhacker, the “gray ghost” built his career and reputation on a willingness to break with the chivalric and overly lethal tactics favored by defenders of southern honor. 

    Where Stuart was respected and well-regarded, Mosby was feared and envied. 

    In 1862 while on picket, Mosby wrote his wife and requested she send him his copy of Scott’s collected works.9 He pined for the plumed dash of Stuart’s lifestyle, but his outlook was far less romantic and far more pragmatic. He yearned for the Arthurian archetype, but lived a life of modern practicality, brutal cunning, and fierce wit more in line with modernity. 

    Though Mosby spent most of his post-war life defending the wayward actions of his fallen chief, the partisan lived by a far different code than most of the superiors he swore fealty to during the war. Unlike Stuart and Jackson and Lee who adhered to, read, and promulgated various doctrines espoused by the faithful, Mosby did not believe in God. 

    “Our civilization,” as he came to say, “is a thin coat of varnish.”10 One mired in a childish falsehood of petty superstition revered by almost everyone in his society and his life, including his wife, Pauline. She was a devout Catholic.11 Vocal atheist that he was, Mosby somehow reconciled his beliefs with the dogma of a wife he loved dearly. 

    Their marriage began auspiciously at a wedding in her native Tennessee, at which future President Andrew Johnson (a friend of Pauline’s father) was a guest. So it was that two of the men who came to be most hated in the South by 1867 shared an important prelude.12 

    The story of Mosby’s fall from grace in the “Solid South”—a term he’s credited with coining, incidentally—is as marbled with contradictory highs and lows as any facet of the Colonel’s life.13 

    Mosby did not surrender with Lee at Appomattox. He remained in the field where his forces were undefeated, unapologetic, and still lethal. Though he capitulated not long after, Mosby the Gray Ghost bridged an important gap in the cult of southern hero-worship.

    In a way, Mosby fit the bill. He was a Virginian and a slave-owner—exactly the type of man who personified the vigor with which free noblemen defended their supposed birthright. Yet, Mosby’s credentials as a slaveowner hardly fit the bill of typical demagoguery which surrounded gray-clad men atop the southern soldier hierarchy.

    Mosby’s slave, Aaron, accompanied him through much of the war. After the conflict and his manumission, Aaron moved to New York City, where Mosby sent him funds for the rest of his life.14 This is a curious patronage. One illuminated by still more curious deeds. 

    Mosby had the stones after the war to contend that any argument positing “states rights” as the cause of the conflict was ignorant to the centrality of chattel slavery which Mosby reasoned was the war’s truest genesis.

    His grasp on political economies was true, albeit sacrilegious in the South. Interestingly, shortly after the Emancipation Proclamation, Mosby asked a Unionist woman in Fairfax County to carry word to President Lincoln conveying Mosby’s heartfelt congratulations and thanks for freeing the slaves.15 This apparently contradictory, but visionary, sentiment put Mosby in league with none other than Karl Marx, who wrote a substantially similar letter to Lincoln a year later in 1864.16 

    Post-war John Singleton Mosby.

    Mosby bucked southern orthodoxy as a matter of convention. Still, he did not earn the ire of his fellow Southerners until the Election of 1868 when he loudly endorsed General Grant—a villain in post-confederate Virginia political cosmology—and conspired with his former enemy to win him the Old Dominion. 

    “Hell,” Mosby said, “was being a Republican in Virginia.”17 

    His flexibility and effectiveness surprised people. Some mistook him for capricious or weak-minded, but Mosby’s limber maneuverability and eye for good land—literal or otherwise—was a survival skill he learned and mastered early.

    As a boy, Mosby never won a fight.18 He was small and sickly, a boy prone to getting his ass kicked. He adapted. In his third year at the University of Virginia, a bully named George Turpin singled Mosby out for physical destruction. The code duello would not benefit young John. A stand-up fight with a much larger boy was an equally unsavory prospect. So Mosby borrowed a pistol and visited Turpin at his boarding house adjacent to the most prestigious University in Virginia. Near hallowed halls of learning laid out by none other than Thomas Jefferson, Mosby ambushed and gut shot George Turpin.19 

    He, a well-raised demi-patrician from a solid Virginia family, found himself charged, convicted, and imprisoned in the Albermale County Jail for eleven months. This alone would have sunk most men. Yet, Mosby’s keen wit and high-held chin endeared him to his prosector and jailer, William Robertson, who leant him law books and tutored him in the barrister’s path during his imprisonment. So it was that Mosby alchemized his greatest defeat into the trade the sustained him for most of his adult life.20 

    After his post-war conversion to the Republican political faith, clandestine snipers, guttersnipes, and potential duel opponents incentivized Mosby to quit Warrenton, Virginia. He entered the graft-heavy civil service and became potentially the first of his generation to pass up the riches of corruption for reform.21

    Not to become too calcified in either his apparent morality, nor his reputation as a rabid enemy of the Yankee industrialist machine, Mosby used his last favor with Ulysses S. Grant to secure a role as corporate fixer for Collis Huntington, a railroad magnate whose interest with the Southern Pacific “octopus” became synonymous with corruption and regulatory capture in California.22 

    Mosby and Richard McVeigh of the Blackhorse Cavalry. LoC.

    SCOUTING THE FUTURE

    These contradictions overwhelm, especially in Civil War studies where men have been made into statues and the dynamics of the past have been frozen in marble. If the war itself represents an ugly inflection point where long narratives of romantic identity fracture against the reconfiguring influence of industrial capitalism-induced mechanical modern war, Mosby appears less conflicted and more representative of his time.

    The glaciers of a calcified past broke apart in America between 1861 and 1865. 

    New floes and torrents developed and swept people from the solid stasis of their childhood into the chaotic maw of a mobile, lethal, and unsentimental future. If Mosby didn’t consciously embrace these ideas, he surely intuited a path through. 

    Or maybe “scouted” is the best way to put it.

    Mosby’s whole life was one long reconnaissance that struck out from the violence of the honorable plantation south into the fields of an unfamiliar future. As best he could, Mosby picked his way through the landscape and when he came back to base to report what he had found, he discovered that home did not exist anymore and he was alone. 

    So it was that John Mosby often found himself caught between the lines of an enemy world and an extinct past. 

    This rugged in-betweenness, this prodigious mind filling a saddle on a fast horse, this eye for place and people, who could kill with words and pistol alike—this is what makes Mosby as a man and ensures his eternal retainer in an American panoply hungry to know people whose primary accomplishment has been survival.

    NOTES

    1. Seipel, Kevin H. Rebel. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983. p. xix. Brown, Peter A., ed. Take Sides With the Truth: the Postwar Letters of John Singleton Mosby to Samuel F. Chapman. Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2007. Jones, Virgil Carrington. Ranger Mosby. Chapel Hill, University of North Carolina Press, 1944. 
    2.  Brown, Peter A., ed. Take Sides With the Truth: the Postwar Letters of John Singleton Mosby to Samuel F. Chapman. Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2007.
    3. Jones, Virgil Carrington. Ranger Mosby. Chapel Hill, University of North Carolina Press, 1944. p. 303.
    4. Seipel, Kevin H. Rebel. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983. p. 4.
    5.  Mosby, John Singleton. The Memories of Colonel John S. Mosby. Boston: Little, Brown & Company, 1917. https://docsouth.unc.edu/fpn/mosby/mosby.html#mos86 p. 12-17.
    6. ibid p. 30.
    7. ibid p. 48.
    8.  Ballard, James Buchanan. William Edmondson “Grumble” Jones: The Life of a Cantankerous Confederate. Jefferson: McFarland & Company, Inc, 2017.
    9.  Mosby, John Singleton. The Memories of Colonel John S. Mosby. Boston: Little, Brown & Company, 1917. https://docsouth.unc.edu/fpn/mosby/mosby.html#mos86 p. 147.
    10.  Seipel, Kevin H. Rebel. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983. p. 254.
    11. ibid p. 6.
    12.  Jones, Virgil Carrington. Ranger Mosby. Chapel Hill, University of North Carolina Press, 1944. p. 278.
    13.  Seipel, Kevin H. Rebel. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983. p. 192.
    14. ibid p. 24.
    15.  Jones, Virgil Carrington. Ranger Mosby. Chapel Hill, University of North Carolina Press, 1944. p. 179-180.
    16.  Marx, Karl. “Address of the International Working Men’s Association to Abraham Lincoln, President of the United States.” January 28, 1865. ttps://marxists.org/archive/marx/iwma/documents/1864/lincoln-letter.htm
    17.  “Hell Is Being A Republican In Virginia.” David Goetz. CSPAN. January 13, 2013. https://c-span.org/video/?323321-1/discussion-john-singleton-mosby-ulysses-s-grant 
    18.  Russell, Charles Wells, ed. The Memoirs of Colonel John S. Mosby. Boston: Little, Brown, and Company, 1917. https://docsouth.unc.edu/fpn/mosby/mosby.html p. 7.
    19.  Keen, Hugh C. And Horace Mewborn. 43rd Battalion Virginia Cavalry Mosby’s Command. Lynchburg: H.E. Howard, Inc, 1993. p. 7.
    20. Mosby, John Singleton. The Memories of Colonel John S. Mosby. Boston: Little, Brown & Company, 1917. https://docsouth.unc.edu/fpn/mosby/mosby.html#mos86 p. 7-9.
    21.  Seipel, Kevin H. Rebel. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983. p. 202.
    22. ibid p. 244-246.